The Ultimate Alps Triple

• Day 1: Chamonix to the Cosmiques hut
• Meet at 8:00 at the Altus Mountain Clubhouse. Aiguille du Midi cable car to 3,842 m and a skills refresher on the Col du Midi. Afternoon acclimatization on the Pointe Lachenal traverse.
• Night: Cosmiques hut (3,613 m)

• Day 2: Acclimatization day
• A shorter climb such as the Arête des Cosmiques to gain altitude and check systems, then rest at the hut ahead of the big day.
• Night: Cosmiques hut

• Day 3: Mont Blanc via the Trois Monts
• A 1:00 am start up the slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4,248 m), over the Col du Mont Maudit and the shoulder of Mont Maudit (4,465 m), then the final slopes to the summit of Mont Blanc (4,806 m). We descend the Bosses ridge to the Goûter hut.
• +1,200 m, 10 to 12 hrs. Night: Goûter hut

• Day 4: Descent and transfer to Grindelwald
• Down the Goûter ridge to the Nid d’Aigle and the tramway, then a scenic drive to Grindelwald beneath the Eiger’s north face.
• Night: Grindelwald

• Day 5: Jungfraujoch to the Mönchsjoch hut
• The Jungfrau Railway climbs through the Eiger to the Jungfraujoch (3,454 m). A short glacier walk brings us to the Mönchsjoch hut (3,657 m).
• Night: Mönchsjoch hut

• Day 6: The Eiger
• We climb the Eiger (3,967 m) via its south ridge over the Eigerjoch, a committing line of snow and rock arêtes with huge exposure above Grindelwald, returning to the Mönchsjoch hut.
• 9 to 11 hrs. Night: Mönchsjoch hut

• Day 7: Down to the Konkordia hut
• A glacier descent down the Jungfraufirn into Konkordiaplatz, where four great glaciers meet, then up the long steel stairway to the Konkordia hut (2,850 m).
• Night: Konkordia hut

• Day 8: Great Aletsch Glacier traverse
• We follow the Great Aletsch Glacier, the longest in the Alps, toward Märjelen and the Fiescheralp, then ride the lift down to Fiesch and transfer to Zermatt by train.
• 6 to 7 hrs. Night: Zermatt

• Day 9: Breithorn half traverse, then the Hörnli hut
• From the Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m) we climb the Breithorn half traverse, a beautiful mixed ridge over 4,000 m. In the afternoon we ride to Schwarzsee and hike up to the Hörnli hut (3,260 m) at the foot of the Matterhorn.
• Night: Hörnli hut

• Day 10: The Matterhorn
• An early start on the Hörnli ridge, climbing 1:1 with your guide over the Solvay shelter and the fixed ropes of the upper ridge to the summit (4,478 m). Careful descent to the hut and down to Zermatt to celebrate.
• +1,220 m, 9 to 11 hrs. Night: Zermatt

• Day 11: Weather day
• Our built-in reserve day. Your guide uses it wherever the forecast demands, most often to give Mont Blanc or the Matterhorn a second window. If we don’t need it, enjoy a bonus climb or a well-earned rest day in Zermatt.
• Trip ends in Zermatt

The itinerary is a plan, not a promise. Your guide adapts the order and objectives to weather, snow and rock conditions, and fitness.

Experience and fitness

• For experienced mountaineers only
• Have climbed at least one 4,000 m peak
• Confident on PD to AD terrain, moving efficiently on rock in boots and crampons
• Ready for several 10 to 12 hour days with 1,200 m or more of gain, back to back, at altitude

How to prepare

Train for six months with long mountain days, back-to-back days and plenty of rock scrambling in boots. Arriving acclimatized is essential: plan to spend several days at altitude right before Day 1, for example hiking and climbing around Chamonix. Our Mont Blanc trip in June is great preparation. Your guide may ask to see a climbing résumé.