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Tantalus Range Mountaineering
The Tantalus Range is the most convenient, stacked, beautiful mountaineering destination on the coast of BC. With ample snow and rock routes close to the hut, this area is truly the pinnacle of mountaineering in the Sea to Sky area.
- Location
- Squamish, BC
- Duration
- 1 Day or more
- Difficulty
- Introductory / Intermediate
- Guest Ratio
- 2 to 1
Contact Us per person
Book nowLocal, Remote, Epic Alpine
The Tantalus Range is the most convenient, stacked, beautiful mountaineering destination on the coast of BC. With ample snow and rock routes close to the hut, this area is truly the pinnacle of mountaineering in the Sea to Sky area.
There are 2 areas in the range: Lake Lovely Water, where the Tantalus Hut is located, and the higher alpine area where the Haberl Hut is located.
The climbing around the Tantalus hut is non-glaciated and more scrambling than technical climbing. Glaciers surround the Haberl hut, and all the routes involve snow/ice climbing and more technical rock. We almost exclusively climb out of the Haberl Hut.
Itinerary
Day 1: Meet your guide at the Squamish helipad. A 10-minute flight lands us a the Jim Haberl hut. After settling into the hut, crampons go on, and we tackle our first objective.
Day 2 to 5: Climb one or all of the classic peaks in the area. We will fly back to Squamish at the end of the trip, returning around 3 or 4 pm.
Is this for you?
The number one question we get from our guests is “am I ready?”. 99.9% the answer is YES, our guide job is literally to push your ability. If you have some minimum climbing experience and eagerness for a day of adventure we can make the day for you!
- Previous rock climbing experience, in the gym or outside
- Can top rope 5.6 as a minimum
- Fitness to be moving for a minimum of 6 hours
- Likes being outside
Includes
- Guide’s fee
- Technical gear rentals (harness, helmet, axe, crampons)
- Photos of the climb
Does Not Include
- Food
- Hut fees
- Transportation to/from heli base
- Personal gear rentals (ex. sleeping bag, mountaineering boots)
- Pre and post valley accommodation
- Guide Tip
Lake Lovely Water Objectives
Omega Mountain: The closest peak to the hut, a short jaunt through the woods, lead to the morainal slope and finally a summit right with difficulties to low 5th class.
Niobe Mountain: Often connected with its neighbouring peak Pelion. A similar start to omega, but with a quick glaciated section and easier rock to the summit! 3rd class scramble
Alpha Mountain East Ridge 5.8: Arguably the best route in the range. A steep somewhat rough hike leads to East ridge of Alpha Mountain. Climbing up to 5.8 on a good granite ridge!
Alpha Mountain North West Ridge 4th class: Also used as the descent route from the East Ridge. A hike along the east side of lake lovely water take (or canoe) takes us through the alpine to the Serratus/Alpha col. 4th class scrambling
Haberl Hut objectives
The Jim Haberl Hut is ideal for first-time Mountaineers or hikers. With the luxuries of the newly constructed hut and various terrain in the Tantalus Range, this trip is suited for the first time mountaineer or experienced mountain climber. Many challenges await just steps from the little-known paradise in Vancouver’s back yard and the Sea to Sky corridor.
An exhilarating helicopter ride brings you from sea level to 2000m and the Jim Haberl Hut. Crampons are a must as you step out of the hut and make your way toward the dayʼs objective: Serratus, Alpha, Dione orTantalus. Each offers its own unique challenge: rock, ice, snow and mixed - the Tantalus Range has it all!
Mount Serratus: This is the closest peak to the hut with lots of options! Our most common routes are North Face, West Ridge, Crosmiques Arete.
Mount Serratus - North face
Mount Serratus - Crosmiques Arete 5.9
Mount Serratus - West rib
Mount Dione and Tantalus
These are the crown jewels of the area, side by side peaks forms the impressive wall seen from the highway
Mount Dione SE Face
Mount Tantalus SE spur
Frequently Asked Questions
Booking Policy
Please take a moment to read and understand our policies before booking! Booking, payment, cancellation and weather policies, as well as FAQ, may be found here.
Gear List
Gear list
Personal Gear
Boots - full-leather, They should be well broken-in and waterproofed with snow seal or similar
Sleeping bag - good to approx. -5 or -10 degrees Celsius
Sleeping pad - Therm-a-rest style or closed-cell foam
Backpack - 40-80 litre capacity
Summit-pack - 20-40 litre capacity (Optional)
Outer layer jacket with hood - Gore-Tex style
Lightweight outer layer waterproof pants - Gore-Tex style
Lightweight thermal layers - top & bottom, Polypro, Icebreaker, etc.
Climbing/hiking pants - nylon, fleece, Schoeller, etc. (1 pair)
Gloves (medium weight) - wool or poly-pro (2 pair)
Waterproof gloves or mitts (gloves work best) (2 pairs)
Warm parka/jacket - down, synthetic, fleece or pile (1)
Sweater or vest - wool, synthetic, fleece or down (1)
Socks - wool or synthetic blend (2-3 pairs)
Toque/warm hat - wool or fleece (1)
Sunglasses - UV block with good eye coverage (1pr)
Ski goggles
Headlamp with new batteries
Personal 1st aid (blister kit, toothbrush, blister kit, toilet paper, etc.)
Misc. personal items (camera, journal, etc.)
Sunscreen - minimum spf45
Water bottles/hydration system - minimum 1 litres
Walking pole(s) - Optional but helpful for the approach/descent
Gaiters (1 pair) - Optional if built-in paint gaiters or boot gaiters
Technical equipment
Ice axe and technical climbing tool
Climbing harness - seat harness only
Helmet
3 locking carabineers
1 belay device
Crampons - adjusted to your boots (1 pair)
Knife - Swiss army style
Tape / Repair kit
Personal Compass and map
GPS
