Mount Garibaldi - NE Face
Conditions Report - August 30, 2026
Route: NE Face Overall: Firm, fast conditions. Glacier travel straightforward, bergschrund still easily passed, one moderate pitch to the ridge, rock finish to the summit.
Approach & Glacier Travel
Good firm snow throughout, travelling well on crampons. A little blue ice showing through in spots but nothing that changed the travel plan. Crevasses were easy to navigate around at this time.
Bergschrund
Still easily passed. Best line is traversing the lip to the south, where it pinches down to a straightforward step on to the upper face.
Main Pitch
One pitch of firm snow gains the ridge. Still too much snow for ice screws and took good snow pickets
Summit Slope
The final slope to the summit is exposed rock - just a few cm of new from the previous night.
Additional Notes
Some recent icefall observed on the main face and some fresh one from today from the slopes below Dalton Dome. W
Working out way up to main face
The Bergschrund
Upper ridge 
Final summit slope
